When Malcolm Maclaren wrote his Buffalo Gals hit in 1983, I'll bet he had the 2011 TMC Eire Trip in the back of his mind, as it was indeed around the outside we were planning to travel:

Four buffalo boys go around the outside
'Round the outside, 'round the outside
Four buffalo boys go around the outside
And doe-see-doe your partners.

(Well all except the doe-see-doe nonsense…and the buffalo bit, it doesnt really work either).The route we took is below:

Day 1, Lisburn - Dunfanaghy

And so it was that at 7.15am on Saturday 3rd September that three (later to be four) of us set off anticlockwise around the coast of Ireland. It was 15°C, murky and threatening to rain, but as you'd expect, traffic was light, and we stayed dry most of that day.

First stop was Carrickfergus Castle, and the only folk we saw were 2 blokes out walking their dogs. On out the A2 passed Whitehead and on towards Larne, the sun broke through just as we hit the coast road, with a lovely warm 8.15am light. We'd a clear run on up the coast - giving Torr Head a miss because it was fairly windy. We did see a Cruise Liner in Ballycastle too, ferrying its cargo to the shore and the numerous coaches waiting to disperse them throughout the North Antrim coast.

It was the Airshow weekend in Portrush too, and while trying to see if the basking shark was still in the harbour, we didn't stop as the place was already packed at 9.30, with camper vans and traffic wardens everywhere. And so we continued on towards Portstewart, Coleraine and our first coffee of the morning in McDonalds - we managed to get ordering some McBreakfast too, with barely 10 McMinutes left on the clock before they stopped McServing.

Continuing on, we took in Castlerock, Downhill, Bellarena, Limavady, Stroke City, over the Foyle bridge, then north through Carndonagh to Malin Head. By this time it was after 1pm, so we took some photos and headed south again for a bite of lunch, though where, I truly cannot remember, but I'm fairly sure it sold petrol too.

Next point of call was Buncrana, passed Inch Island, and the wide A2 road to Letterkenny, where we stopped to put on rainsuits just as sky went dark grey and a deluge struck. Richard had phoned Murray from Dunfanaghy by this stage to say that he'd also been caught out by heavy showers. So the rain-suits stayed on until we got to our first stop,The Whins Bed and Breakfast in Dunfanaghy, around 4.00pm. Lovely spot, very hospitable, a warm shower and bottomless teacups - just the ticket after our first days' ride.

For dinner, we walked down into town and got some great food and service at Arnolds Hotel - well recommended.

Day 2, Dunfanaghy - Clifden

...started early around 7.00am, and definitely autumnal, if not cold outside. At least the sky was blue which helps. We had a monster breakfast of porridge with sprinkled almonds (well, all except Ian :) followed by a monster fry and 8 loaves of toast. Enough until elevenses at least.

We'd a super, empty and dry road past a beautifully cloud capped Errigal mountain; on through Gweedore, Dungloe, Ardara, Donegal town, and stopped at Laghy for a cuppa and some Walkers all butter shortbread. From there, the fast N15 bypassed Ballyshannon, Bundoran and down into Sligo town, where we picked up the N59 towards Ballina, and that's where the power of technology let us down! Using satnavs to keep us on the N59 got us 2 laps of town (in the rain) before Richard went and harassed a random couple in a random house, on a random street where we were technically lost, but in reality, just having a break…

The rain eventually turned to sunshine as we neared Bangor Erris and some beautiful landscapes over towards

Achill Island and through Mulranny. Another fuel stop in Newport for both bike and body sustained us through Westport, Lenane and on along the N59 to Clifden, destination for our second night.

As it was quite late by this stage, well after 6.00pm, we (Richard) negotiated a very respectable rate in Foyle's Hotel, slap in the middle of town. A lovely family run hotel with very comfy & warm, spacious rooms - worth a look if you're nearby. Only drawback was no off-street parking, but we got a couple of spaces right out front on the street, and I don't imagine a Sunday night in Clifden in September is generally that raucous.

We ate next door in the Alcock and Brown hotel, with very good food and very reasonably priced. Worth the ride!

Day 3, Clifden - Kenmare

...demanded we start the day right with another full Irish, except for Murray who contended that he actually enjoyed smoked kippers for breakfast - as if! The morning started dry also, but we decided to wear the raingear due to the forecast and the foreboding skies all around. Another lovely run along the N59 into and around Galway got us as far as Kilcolgan, before we needed a cofpetloo stop (coffee, petrol & toilet stop). S L O W   S L O W was then the order of the day as far as Doolin due to traffic, unending twisty roads, and diversions which brought everything to nearly a standstill.

By the time we reached the Cliffs of Moher, it was driving rain and a very gusty wind, but the fact that we all got into the car park as senior citizens gave our damp day a little lift! And saving a couple of Euro into the bargain. Weatherwise, it was all a bit grim to be truthful, but since we'd come this far, posterity suggested that we had to go and see the cliffs - after all, we came this far last year and managed to not see them!

The rain cleared briefly towards Kilkee and Kilrush, where we arrived in perfect time to ride straight on to the car ferry across the Shannon. 9 Euro for a single journey, I didn't qualify for a senior rate this time. Twenty minutes brought us across to the Kingdom of Kerry where we turned right and took the coast road to Ballybunnion. Not many on the beach today, I assure you. Good roads south then to Tralee, the rain came on and winds picked up as we headed for Killarney; if you're chatting to Richard, he'll avow to the fact that the sea was lapping the shores of Muckross House as we rode passed...The road up to Molls Gap was indeed hairy given the weather conditions, but the ride down into Kenmare was as nice a road as I remembered it.

Another late evening, after 8-9 hours in the saddle, we pulled up to the Lansdowne Arms Hotel at the top of the town and sent our negotiator in to sort out the receptionist. She clearly caved in to his endless charm too, 'cos we got another excellent rate for the night for B&B. Parking was round the back and right beside our rooms which was handy.

A quick shower to get refreshed, we all wandered round to Foleys Hotel and Restaurant for eats, and the best seafood chowder and fresh baked hake that I'd eaten in many a day. Great scenery and great food to end the day...what's not to like?

Day 4, Kenmare - Waterford

…was crowned by the secret porridge recipe served up with cream and honey - what a way to start the day!

The skies were threatening but winds were strong as we were getting the tail end of Hurricane Katia. Nonetheless, it stayed dry for most of the morning. Leaving Kenmare, we'd some super twisty, grippy (and dry) roads over the Caha pass, before heading down to Mizen Head for a cofloo stop - no petrol here I'm afraid. The bridge over to the Lighthouse was reopened only last month, so we couldn't have timed it better. Amazing scenery, we were able to watch 4 seals in the bay below the bridge; wind and waves were ferocious - definitely a day to be on shore rather than off.

Now heading east, we passed through Skibbereen and Clonakilty, we took the R600 coast road to Kinsale and on to Carrigaline and Crosshaven on the R611 - lovely roads, very akin to riding down the inside of the Ards peninsula. Another cofloo stop was required as it was just starting to rain - and by the way, the lemon drizzle cake with poppy seeds was awesome.

The sun was back out now, so we headed towards Cork through Ringaskiddy and Passage West to pick up the South Ring Road en route to Waterford. Unfortunately, 3 of our wheels missed a turnoff when we all got separated and headed back west; it was to be 35 mins later when we all met up on the N25 - technology can work when it wants! A fast and wide road, we made good progress, almost outriding our second rain shower of the day, but it didn't really amount to much thankfully. Past Youghal, we refuelled in Dungarvan in the sunshine around 5.30pm, and managed the last 30 miles or so into Waterford, just as the rush hour traffic was clearing. Timed to perfection.

Richard had spied several Waterfront properties in which we thought we'd like to spend the night - as this was our last night, and we were in the city centre, we expected to pay a little more than usual. So picking what looked like a lovely 4 star hotel, the Granville Hotel, the patter went something like this:

Richard Hello there, myself and 3 colleagues are doing a motorcycle tour of Ireland and are looking for somewhere to stay tonight.
Now, we have a budget, and you're clearly out of our budget, but could you recommend us somewhere to stay?
Receptionist What is your budget then?
Richard 10 Euros...
Receptionist Aww come on!
Richard 50 Euros...
Receptionist Per person?
Richard Yes...
Receptionist Including breakfast?
Richard Yes...
Receptionist I'll honour that price!
Richard *$!"~@!"*^&%$£%!

To be truthful, I've no idea what he said here, but he wandered back out to us dead pokerfaced before waving two room keys in our faces, so I expect it was something like 'Deal!'. To top that, they had a little covered annexe off the Main St which was used primarily as a smoking area, so they opened up the doors and it swallowed 3 bikes and a trike quite comfortably.

You've probably noticed before the head turning caused by a canary yellow Can Am Spyder, but nowhere have I seen it more pronounced than in the Granville Hotel, where the Manageress came over to us 3 times to talk about it, and even related the story when Bono's Harley Davidson was parked in the same spot and he happened to pass by when she was straddled across it for a photograph. For the Spyder, even the waitresses in the restaurant had to dash out with their phones for a photo when the restaurant closed at 10.30pm or so. Remarkable! Rooms were superb; Murray and Ian's room was a massive family room with two showers, two sinks and three beds - we do like to look after our 'senior citizens' you know ;¬)

Day 5, Waterford - Lisburn

We managed to sleep very well despite the grandeur, and were pretty much fed, watered and on the road by 9.00am. Homeward Bound, today's route took us through New Ross, Wexford, Gorey, Arklow, and Wicklow where we stopped for our penultimate cofpetloo. It's always quite disheartening to be heading home and today was no different. From Wicklow, we came up through Greystones and Bray, where we hopped onto the M50. An hour later found us at the new service halt at Castlebellingham for a very pleasant bite of lunch. Still dry, we said our farewells, and set off around 2pm for the last hour's ride home again.

Thanks go to Murray for all the effort he put into route planning and battling Bluetooth while we were away; to Richard for his indomitable outlook on life and all the Euros he saved us sweet-talking hotel receptionists; and to Ian, for huge entertainment value with his Can Am!

It didn't seem like we had been on the road for 5 days, riding for approx 40 hours, and covering 1200 miles around the coast of Ireland. Wonderful scenery, and as ever, you take a chance with the weather, but isn't that where the fun lies? Why, you could even ride the same journey the other way round and have a totally different holiday. Now there's a thought. Errr, Murray, see next year...?

Full photo gallery can be found here.